Returning to Syria: A Journey Through Time and Craft
Thirteen years have passed since I was in Syria, a place where I once lived and built a business dedicated to antique textiles and the reimagining of traditional crafts. My store in Al-Qaymariyya in the Old City catered to visitors seeking a tangible memory of their travels, a handcrafted piece of Syria’s rich heritage to take home. This recent trip, after such a long absence, was a deeply emotional experience, reconnecting with the soul of a country that continues to breathe life into its ancient traditions.
Wandering through the Old city of Damascus, I was once again immersed in its timeless grandeur, surrounded by history, artistry, and the enduring craftsmanship of its artisans. My journey began in Al-Hariqa, where merchants still sell the traditional Aghabani embroidered textiles, their intricate gold and silver threads shimmering under the soft light of their shops. These delicate fabrics, treasured for generations, are a testament to the skilled hands that continue to preserve this centuries-old art form.
From Al-Hariqa, I made my way to Al-Buzuriyah, the bustling spice souk, where the air was alive with intoxicating aromas of spices, each scent a reminder of the culinary traditions that have been passed down through generations. This was a place my mother frequented, carefully selecting ingredients to create her unique blend of zaatar, a mixture that carries with it the taste of home. Here, too, were the stacks of olive soap, their square blocks arranged in towering formations, and loofahs hanging like delicate ornaments.
Stepping into Khan As’ad Pasha, I was transported to an era when merchants from across the Silk Road once gathered, their goods and stories converging in this grand caravanserai. The echoes of history still resonate in its vast courtyard, a monument to Damascus’s rich mercantile past.
Continuing my walk, I ventured down Midhat Pasha Souq along the famous Straight Street, where artisans still craft exquisite mosaic and mother-of-pearl inlays, their careful hands assembling pieces of wood and shell into breathtaking patterns. These workshops are more than just businesses; they are custodians of a heritage that dates back centuries.
A highlight of my visit was returning to the rug merchants, whom I once visited regularly in search of the rare weavings from Afreen. These kilims, with their unique designs and vibrant hues, told stories of the region from which they hailed. Alongside them were the Syrian textiles from abayas to embroidered dresses, each piece telling its own story through patterns and colors passed down through generations.
As I continued my journey, the rhythmic sounds of hammering filled the air as I approached Souq Al-Nahasin, the coppersmith market. The steady clanging of metal against metal was like a heartbeat, keeping the craft alive, reminding me of the resilience and dedication of Damascus’s artisans.
This journey reignited my passion for Syria’s traditional crafts, a passion that has never faded despite the years apart. The artisans, the merchants, the markets—they are not just preserving history; they are breathing life into it, ensuring that the beauty of Syrian craftsmanship endures for generations to come.